Just wanted to give a shout-out to these guys because they’ve been very helpful to me in the past. They’re always good for some solid advice, whether it be specifically for garage door repairs or help finding a contractor for a different kind of job.
Tips on Hiring Contractors – From Garage Doors and More http://t.co/0PETPvJgkW
In our previous discussions about roofing in Tucson, we’ve looked at the three types of valleys: woven, closed, and open. Now let’s look at the two types of flashing: step flashing and L flashing. When the roof planes butt against vertical walls or chimneys, metal flashing must be placed over the end of each course. This procedure is called step flashing. In this situation, step flashing performs better than solid continuous flashing, because it ensures a waterproof seal with these critical areas.
The use of continuous flashing or L flashing at these areas is not recommended, because this flashing is dependent on sealants for water tightness. Overall, step flashing is the most proven way to flash these areas. The metal flashing strips used for step flashing are rectangular. Typically, ten inches wide and two inches longer than the non-exposed area of the roof shingle. For typical five inch shingle exposure, use a ten inch by seven inch piece of flashing.
GAFL has several shingles that are much wider than standard shingles. These shingles measure seventeen inches by forty inches long. The non-exposed area on these shingles is typically nine and a half inches wide. To completely cover these shingles with step flashing, use ten and a half inch wide flashing or simply install two pieces of a normal step flashing to fully cover this area. Another question is whether to use new step flashing or to reuse the old step flashing.
Many times it can be very difficult to install new metal step flashing on a home where there is painted siding or masonry siding in place. GAFL recommends to only reuse existing step flashing if it is in like new condition. Like new means it is not buckled, rusted, bend, cracked, or broken. In all cases it is best if possible to install new step flashing. Installing step flashing at sidewalls is required on Golden Pledge Installations. If reusing old step flashing, it must be in like new condition.
Bend the ten inch length, so that it extends five inches over the roof deck and five inched up the wall surface. Place the first step flashing over the end of the starter course shingle and position it so that the tab of the end shingle in the first course covers it completely. It will help if you keep in mind that all components of the roof system are assembled so that the water will be shed down the slope of the roof. Secure the step flashing to the roof with two nails.
Don’t nail through the flashing to the wall because the flashing needs to be able to move with any deck in building movement. Fastening it to both might cause it to tear, if the building moves or settles.Next, apply the first course of shingles up to the wall and position the second flashing strip over the shingle. The non-exposed area of the shingle in the second course should be completely covered. Mail the step flashing to the roof. The second course of shingles follows.
The end is flashed as in the preceding course. Continue this process to the top of the roofing area. On a vertical sidewall, the siding may serve as counter flashing over the step flashing or a separate counter flashing may be used. You’ve seen how the step flashing is used. Another problem location on the roof is where the roof meets a vertical wall. This is where L flashing is used. Let’s look at the recommended way to apply a finish course of shingles on the roof where it meets a vertical sidewall. Shingle up to the wall. Lay a bead of plastic cement at the top portion of the shingle.
Place the L flashing over the shingles and under the siding. Remember that everything is designed to shed water from the counter flashing of the siding to the shingles under the L flashing. When the shingles are run all the way up to the wall, nail the flashing into the deck, but not into the vertical wall. You can seal the nails here or run a course of shingles over the metal and embed them in a bed of asphalt cement. When applying shingles around all vent stacks, here are some important steps to consider.
Apply a piece of Weather watch or Storm Guard, approximately two times the size of the flange on to the deck protectors, under the shingles. Seal to the pipe sides.Installing Weather Watch or Storm Guard around pipe flashing is required on all Golden Pledge and Systems Plus Ltd. Warranty Installations. Trim the shingle to fit and check shingle alignment. Apply asphalt cement under shingles, around the vent stacks. Set the shingles into the cement. I always replace all flashing. In my opinion, trying to save a few bucks by reusing flashing is just not worth it.
Another key component of the weather stopper roof system is the hip and ridge cap shingle. Nothing dresses up a roofing job more than a neat hip and ridge installation. It is the crowing touch of the roofing job. But hip and ridge shingles are more than just a good looking finishing touch. This roofing business can be really crazy. Every day I see roofers who sell a property owner a 30, 40, or 50 year shingle and then they finish the job by using a 20 year regular shingle for the hip and ridge cap. Isn’t that just a flat out rip off? The customer paid for more than 20 year performance and what do they get? A twenty year roof!
GAFL certified contractors are professionals and should use the right hip and ridge product, like TimberTex or RidgeGlass for a great looking job. Let the trunk slammer install install cheap hip and ridge. Professionals do it right. GAFL also makes shingle match – a specialized paint that can make unsightly vent and accessories blend in with the color of the roof.These finishing touches can make a great looking roof. It’s what the property owner deserves. Next, we’ll look at some advanced roofing materials.Read More
Today, we are looking at an Electrolux dryer and the complaint is that something broke off inside of the drum. So what we found is that the moisture sensor actually is broken, so we called the experts at Appliance Repair Las Vegas (http://lasvegasappliancemasters.com/) to help us sort things out. Some kind of clothing or something in the dryer as it was running, snagged against the moisture sensor at the back and caused it to break and come off.
Before beginning any repair always be sure disconnect the power to the appliance. It is also recommended to test the outlet for proper voltage. The tools needed for this repair are a number 2 Philips screwdriver.
So, to begin the repair, the first thing we want to do is unplug the dryer and we’re going to open the door and then, we’ll going to gain access to our which is just located on the back housing inside the dryer here.
So now, I’m in here at the moisture sensor, you can see it’s just not attached anymore to the back housing here, the clips that mount back here should be in place and the wiring instead just came off the two terminals and you can see where it just got bent, something came, you know, this drum rotates clockwise and something was able to get on here and snag it and pull it as it was rotating.
So, we’re just going to go ahead and remove our screw number 2 Philips, now we can remove our moisture sensor here and replace it with a new one. Now, if this, you know, we’re just replacing this moisture sensor because it was damaged, there is no need to test it, it has not failed electronically.
But if this were failed electronically, what you can do is take your multimeter, place both of your test lead on each terminal here of the moisture sensor and then you can take a piece of metal like this screwdriver, go across here and that gives it the continuity and you’ll hear the audible tone if you set the multimeter to audible tone and you’ll hear it beep, that means that means that this sensor is good. That’s how you would test this sensor.
Then the reasons, you know, the symptoms that would be in place if this was electronically bad would be that the dryer, you know is shutting off too soon, the clothes are still we on your automatic cycles or potentially not shutting off at all. With some models, it will throw an error code also when it recognizes that this sensor is bad.
So now we got the new moisture sensor, first thing we’re going to do is install our wires. So it’s kind of fallen into the housing here, so we’ll just going to have to fish them out. And you may have to use a pair of needle nose depending on how far they’ve dropped in there.
Alright, now that we got the wires on, there’s this tab and we’re just going to put to this slot there and then we’re going to reinstall the screw. And that’s going to complete replacing the moisture sensor.Read More
We’ve come to rely on our home appliances so much that we simply take it for granted that they’ll be there for us… until we realize that we’re in desperate need of an appliance repair of some kind! The horror! We came to this realization recently, just before we were to have family (along with 4 small kids!) come to stay with us for 10 days… and our washing machine stopped working. Not a good feeling, let me tell you.
There are a lot of things that I’ve learned over the years as far as fixing things around the house. But in this particular situation, my wife was in no mood for me to ‘tinker’ with things until I got it right. I needed to have this washer working normally within a day… or else! (Or else what? I don’t know, but I didn’t want to find out, either!) So rather than fumble about, I decided to call in a favor from a good friend who works as a professional in appliance repair in Austin, TX at http://austinappliancemasters.com. Over the phone he was able to help me surprisingly well.
I figured with all that help I got, I should pass it along as best I could so that anyone else in need of a washer repair – in this case, replacing a broken timer – might not have to face the same ultimatum that I faced. So… with that said, here we go.
Okay, so what we’re going to be doing here today is we’re going to be replacing the timer unit on this Kenmore washer – this will be very similar to any Whirlpool style washer…they’re all pretty much the same. So, let’s get started.
Okay, so what we’re going to do here is remove our end caps here…these just snap on – got these little clips here that hold them…a couple screws, one on each side. We’re going to pull them out. And this is set on some hooks…so this you need to slide it forward…it’s actually it’s hinged…so this won’t actually fall off…it’ll stay right on here…the hinge is here…so this just flips right back.
And here’s our timer here…okay, here’s our timer here – this one still has a little label…you can’t read it..it’s attention technician…on how to remove this timer…a lot of times you’ll find it, especially on these older ones…this will be long gone.
So, what you want to do is pretty simple and there’s quite a few different models that use the same style. What you want to do is grab a hold of this little black thing here, in the center…a pair of needle nose plyers, and you want to pull it out a little ways…you’ll feel it pull loose, and what that’s doing is coming loose of the knob. If you try to pull that knob off like some of the other knobs come off you’ll snap this piece right off.
This piece actually comes right out…it latches in there. So you can leave that just laying in there…pull this right off…and then we have a couple little clips retaining this piece in…clear piece…pull it straight off…and we have a screw that’s holding the timer here…quarter wrench, we take our nut driver…take the screw out…we’ve already unplugged this unit also…and we can disconnect our wire here…and this timer here, when it comes out…you’ll actually see these little hooks here…and one on this side…this hooks in back, and the front slides down…now it’s hooked. So you don’t want to try and yank this off…you wanna slide it…pull that out…comes out, and that’s all there is to it…the opposite to replacing the timer.
So, we just put our screw back in…piece…now before you put the knob on…what you’ll wanna do is, you’ll leave this black piece out…and get your knob snapped in there…and then, push that in…that keeps it locked so you can pull it out…and then we just reassemble. I hoped this information helped you out.Read More
For your garbage disposal I have a couple of kitchen appliance tips from Las Vegas Appliance Masters (http://lasvegasappliancemasters.com).
One thing is just let the water run longer, put the water on full blast and cold and after you put your food in here and turn the unit on, just let it run for even fifteen seconds or so, after you feel like it’s ground up.
The more water, the more it allows the blades to push all the debris off the inside of the unit. You are going to have less particle sitting in there to decay and to cause odor. Another thing you could do, when you are doing your dishes, if you are using this side of the sink and you’re covering it with the plug, just let it fill with soapy water and then when you drain the side of the sink, turn on the unit and let that soap do its job.
But one thing that really cleans the blades and the inside of the unit is once a month, if you could take some white vinegar and freeze it in your ice cube tray, by putting this into the drain and just putting your water on, let it grind and then shut it off, let that vinegar stay in side of the unit for fifteen-twenty minutes and that acid in the vinegar will break down particles, it will destroy odor and it does a great job with cleaning the blades.
The other thing you could do once a month is if you use baking soda in your refrigerator to absorb odor, they actually recommend that once a month you replace the baking soda. So you can pour half of the container down your garbage disposal, take a little white vinegar and pour on top of it and just let it bubble and fizz, you can turn the unit on for just two or three seconds, so that you spin this mixture on the inside and especially underneath this baffle. And just let it sit again fifteen-twenty minutes and that will break down a lot of bacteria that causes odor. So if you do this once a month, you eliminate your odor problem.Read More
If you have an American standard toilet and you are looking to change the flush valve, there’s a few things you need to look for. When you go to your hardware store, one of the first things you need to look is the existing flap and in this case, I already took out the flap, just so you can see the bracket that holds it.
And this one here is the flush valve connected to a plastic bracket and it has two holes in it and this will accept two little nipples on the side of the existing flush valve. This is a style that came out of the toilet and you can see the two nipples off to the side of the base and if you are looking to replace this and you are running to your hardware store, you are going to need to know the style.
It’s much better if you can bring this in with you, because there is an American standard number four, a number five and a number six and they all have different body shapes and lengths on the tower here. So it’s important that you know which style you have and in many cases you can actually just pull off this rubber disc here and you can replace this.
And they’ll have a couple different styles, they’ll either have a snap in like this or they’ll have one that’s threaded. So again, you need to know the style before you go into the store. To show you an example of just one of the other styles, this is for an American standard, very similar, but rather than attaching to that plastic bracket inside the tank, this is designed so you use two brass screws, unscrew the whole assembly and then you’ll have to change it like this.
This will not fit into this toilet. So it’s very important if you are looking for a flush valve for an American standard, that you are looking at the existing pieces and if possible, bring them in with you when you exchange it at the hardware store.Read More