Maytag Icemaker Replacement DIY Style

Maytag Icemaker Replacement DIY Style

Today we are going to do a replacement on an icemaker for the pull out bottom freezer that our friends at Appliance Masters got a call on recently. The tools required to complete this repair is a quarter inch nut driver and just a couple of different size flat head screw drivers.

So what we are going to do first here is we are just going to go ahead and remove the drawer, the lower door itself, just going to pull it out, lift it up, pull it right off here, now we are just going to remove the upper rack here, now we have got two Phillips screws at the top and one down here at the bottom so we are going to remove the bottom one first, they are actually quarter inch screws.

Maytag Icemaker Replacement 1Remove that and usually you can just loosen the two tops ones here a little bit, we are going to disconnect our main wiring harness right back here in the corner, lift the icemaker right up and off the two screws, the back one will have to come all the way out just like that, and you can see there with ice cubes in the icemaker, it just wasn’t ejecting them and as it was running, you could hear a grinding noise.

Ok so what we are going to do basically is strip off all the components off the old icemaker, remove from this side here so you put in your new icemaker, I will push it almost all the way in, put the other side here, make sure it locks in and out, we are going to pull the cover, a little bit of a tab on the bottom side, you can get a screwdriver in, pop that cover off like that, set that off to the side and that will expose the connector for your wiring harness, take a flat head screwdriver, just depress the tab, pull the harness out like that, you got your little inline fuse right there and you pull the connector that holds the harness off and we are going to reinstall it onto the new harness here and we are going to go ahead and snap that into place like that.

Maytag Icemaker Replacement 2Clip that in right under there, pull your harness guide, make sure that that snaps in, ok we are going to go ahead and take our fill cup, pop that off and we are going to snap the fill cup right here. Just like that, and we’re not going to put the cover back on quite yet, cause we’re going to test the new ice maker out, so we’re going to go ahead and mount this up in to the….back into the freezer here, so what we’re going to do, we’ve got one screw that’s still hanging there, put the ice maker and run it, got it in to the fill tube there, hanging on the one screw we have, on the inside, we’re going to put the other screw in, turn it down, now tighten your other screw that was loose back down, reconnect the harness in the back here.

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Planning Your Kitchen Cabinets Using CAD

Planning Your Kitchen Cabinets Using CAD

One of the great things about modern computer aided drafting (CAD), is that it no longer costs a small fortune to have access to it and you don’t need a degree to make use of it for your own kitchen designs (or any other home designs, for that matter). We’ve been using it recently for our own kitchen remodel, and as soon as we’re done with this part, designing the new cabinets, we’ll be able to have a good idea of how it’s all coming together with our combination of new and refurbished appliances from Appliance Masters.

With the dimension tools of course I have a centerline dimension and end to end dimension, I’m going to show all of that when we get to the point after our wall cabinets are put in here.

Virtual Online Kitchen CabinetsThis dimension down here is a little bit larger than it should be because I’ve toggled that wall off to be invisible in our perspective view, so I’m going to come back in to our fore plan view and toggle that wall back from invisible to solid. That way our wall elevation will be more accurate and not show that extended area of wall covered by the invisible.

With our wall cabinet tool let’s go head and place our wall cabinet here, let’s go ahead and place our wall cabinet off to the right hand side of the cook range, let’s pull that up to be a 42” wall cabinet. I’m going to copy and reflect that around the cook hood, and then finally we’ll add one more above the refrigerator.

Let’s stretch that to be 48” above the refrigerator and then we’ll snap that down. If I open up that cabinet above the refrigerator I want to change the depth on it to be 24”, and now I want to group select so I’m going to hold down the shift key and grab all of those wall cabinets.

With the wall cabinets I want to match the base cabinet door style, so back in to the library for the door style, let’s find that European sea channel style door and select okay. Actually I missed the hardware option so let’s remove that hardware since it’s integrated.

We’ll do the same thing for the wall cabinet, door and drawer we’ll go in to the library here and find that European style, select okay, no hardware in this case and then finally for the drawer that we have below it’s the same exact thing with also no hardware.

Antique virtual kitchenNow I want to add a crown molding to both the wall cabinets and the full height cabinet, so again I’m just going to shift and select all of those cabinets. You’ll see a molding tab up here, let’s go in and browse in to our molding options. There’s a variety of crown moldings, of course edge moldings for your countertops, light rails, all the different moldings that you want to use and I’m actually just going to choose a basic molding profile out of the door and window casing.

Let me go ahead and change that to something like 2” high and then I’ve got both a vertical and horizontal offset I can change, for now I’m just going to offset that on top of the cabinet box to the same height as the molding itself.

Now finally I want to select these two wall cabinets and let’s go ahead and change those to a glass style, so what I’m going to do is actually use my material eyedropper, pick up the window and I’m going to apply that here to the different door style.

I’m going to adjust these cabinets here slightly and have them all line up, so I’ll make that 48”, make our cook range 102” and also pull this cabinet up to be 48” as well.

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Insulating Windows and Doors

Insulating Windows and Doors

Today I am going to explain to you two different methods on how to insulate around a window, so that’s actually insulating the gap that’s left between the framework and the window frame itself. There’s basically two methods. One method involves batt insulation, they call it chinking. So you’ll actually slide this into place, in that space. The other method and the one that I prefer to use is spray foam.

You’ll have to be sure you’re using a low expanding spray foam, made for around windows and doors. You don’t want one that says filling gaps or high pressure, because it will actually bend your window jambs and door jambs our of shape. So you want the low expansion foam, one that’s made for windows and doors. We’re going to start with that one to begin with. We’ve got a window here and we got 2×6 framing, so the spray foam comes with a straw and everything, shake the can really well before you start to use it.

Insulating Windows and Doors 5I like to do my spray foam in two passes. That being said, what I mean is I want to stick the straw back into the gap about an inch from the outside edge of the window, the far side of the window, spray that opening about half-full, let it sit for a couple of hours, you don’t even have to do that, half an hour, go and do every window half-full and come back and spray again to fill that window up.

What that does is that when the foam, if are going to get some that comes outside of the opening that you need to trim off with your knife, soon that you trim it, it cuts off the outer layer that actually creates an air barrier, so by doing it in two passes, the inner one is still creating an air barrier for three quarters of the thickness of the window and this last one is giving you air value, but not necessarily an air barrier.

So I like doing it in two passes, we’re going to do this one here, I’ll just show you how to go about it, I have another one that I’ve already done one pass one, so then will switch over to that window and just show you the final pass. Again, I usually start in the bottom corner and work my way up and I want to stick the straw right back in there, just about as far as I can, like I said, about an inch or two inches from the far outside edge of the wall and start filling.

And you continue all the way up to the top, come back down to the bottom, work around any blocks or shims you have in the way. Just like so. And you continue doing that all the way around the window. And like I said, you want to fill that maybe half full or three quarters full. It will expand out a little bit, so usually if you stop at about half full, it will expand enough to about three quarters and you should be good.

Insulating Windows and Doors 3So we’ve moved to a different window and this one, like I said, I already sprayed the first pass and you can see some of the foam down in there. So what I want to do again is just insert the straw and do another bit of a pass here and up the side as well.

And you’ll continue yourself all the way around there. Once that has a chance to set, most of these will cure within a couple of hours, and you’ll find that it expands out passed the window. Just go back and trim it off with your utility knife once is fully cured. If you get some of this on your hands or your clothes, hopefully not the flooring, but if get some on there, I know it’s hard not to, but don’t try to wipe it up when it’s still wet, let it cure and then get rid of it.

If you get in on your hands, obviously you’re going to want to clean it up right away, but it’s a lot easier to clean off the flooring or the wall if it actually had a chance to cure, otherwise you just smear it and make more of a mess. So that’s spray foaming to insulate a window. Now we’re going to move back to another window that we don’t have any insulation in and we’re going to use strips of batt insulation. I’ll show you how to do that.

The second method which I really don’t recommend, I usually use the pray foam method myself, but the second method is using a fiber batt insulation to insulate the space around the windows or doors. So what you want to do is, whatever your width is, you space is here between the window jam and the framing, you want to rip off a piece of insulation about twice that thickness. So we’ve got about half inch or three quarter inch gap here, I’ve got about an inch of thickness. Then I’ve cut it into width.

Insulating Windows and Doors 2We’ve got a 2×6 wall, so I’ve cut this at about five, five and a half inches and what you really need is that insulation and some kind of flat utensil in order to help slide it and guide it back in there. I like to use a flat red bar, you could use a butter knife, a ruler, whatever fits back in that opening. First of all, what you don’t want to do is just start..I’ve seen a lot of people just ram in as much stuff as they can in there and think, ” I’ve got in full now, I can’t get anything else in, it’s good”.

That’s the worst thing you can do, because this type of insulation, once you get it too compressed, you actually lost your insulating value in it. So what we’re trying to do is actually take this piece, that’s why you’ve taken the time to make it the right size, and slide it straight back in there as much as we can. Now it does take a little bit of fiddling to get it in there, but that’t why we got the red bar. So basically, start by getting it folded on the red bar a little bit and starting in there.

Once you have it in there, unless you got it really tight spot, you can almost pinch it and just slide it right back and you can kind of tell if you’re getting it all balled or not, once you start doing it. Kind of work it from the back side, the front side, whichever way seems to work the best. Get it all in there nice and you can see it’s, I don’t know if you can see, but I’ll do the bottom to show you better, but it’s just all nicely fitting in there, does a real nice job.

Same thing on the bottom. We’re just going to start in there, we’ve got a shim on the one side here to work around, so we’re starting at that shim. I’m trying not to bunch it up, I’m just working it along there, until I can tell that I’ve got it right back to the edge and it looks good, it’s not just all rammed in there and hanging out and snagged up. Like I said, I don’t really like to use this method, if I don’t have to.

About the only time I do is if I have a really large gap in a renovation or something, we’ve changed the size of the window, because of the cost of the spray foam, it’s usually not that effective if you got a two inch gap to fill, it takes a lot of foam. What I have done is used the batt insulation to fill three quarters of that gap and then maybe spray foam to the inside, because it creates that air seal and kind of finishes it off, so it’s kind of a hybrid between the two.

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Part 2 of Subfloor Removal

Part 2 of Subfloor Removal

Okay, so continuing on from the first part of this projet… So there is the cuts that I made. Another item you might want to have on is a dust mask as well when you are doing the cutting. This is basically, most of these materials are made out of compressed sawdust really, it can be kind of fine dust. So I’ve got my cuts made, right along here is the joint in the sheets and these are my saw cuts. So I’ll just start right on this corner.

It’s usually helpful if you could start at the doorway, it’s just easier to get under the edge of the sheet to get going. So you just start your bar under there. And I like to have a garbage can close by, some of the smaller pieces can go straight into it. We got our first one out of there, there is a nail that didn’t come up, pull it out and just keep going.

Bigger pieces I usually just stack into piles, because they just clog up the garbage can right away. So you can see as we go along, I am not sure, maybe you can’t see them, you can see that there is the old staple, nail that is still left behind, so I just go along with the pliers and pull that out right now while I can see them.

subfloor 5 When I sweep up and clean up, you’ll generally come across the other ones that you missed. If you get the majority now while you are already down here, just makes it a little more easier on you. So you go along and just kind of pull those out as you go. So you can see that making the cuts definitely helps in getting a little big pieces, otherwise you are trying to pry up the whole sheet that’s nailed down and usually breaks into real small pieces.

So just go along here, peel a couple more out. You can see now that I’ve got it started, I’m not even using the hammer for the most part. Once you got a piece started, you can also get your hand under there and just help to pull it up. That will also help the pieces to be a little bigger. So I’ve worked my way over to the next sheet and that next sheet I didn’t cut, because I thought I will show you what happens when you try to pry on a full sheet.

subfloor 4So I will just start here and you will see it,generally, just wants to break into small pieces. You can see how that wouldn’t be a lot of fun. If you can get it up into a bigger piece like this as opposed to stuff like that, it just going to go a lot quicker, a lot less mess.So basically that’s how I remove underlayment and like I said, if you have vinyl flooring, you could do the exact same thing.

Just set your saw, cut right through the vinyl. You could try to peel vinyl off, but it comes off as easy as this stuff we’ve seen here, but generally, it won’t come off that quick and easy. So I just cut right through it, if you are around some cabinets, because this was put down before any cabinets were in the way, so if you are leaving the cabinets in place, we could use a reciprocate saw and cut around the front edge of the cabinets and that sort of thing.

They also have those little orbital saws now, kind of oscillating, they would work, I think, all right for that too, so it would cut it free, so that you could remove all that from the main part of the room and relay whatever you are going to put down. So this was a nice short video. Don’t forget your safety gears, pretty important in here, because you are dealing with a lot of staples and dust and that sort of thing.

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Removing a Subfloor or Underlayment

Removing a Subfloor or Underlayment

Today I want to show you how to remove underlayment. Some people might call it subfloor, but there is usually a plywood or OSB some floor on your flooring and then underlayment on top of that, generally. It’s usually maybe a quarter inch thick or 5/16ths.

So we are removing and in this case, it was underneath carpet. We’re removing it because we want to put hardwood over top this area. Other places you’ll find this type of product will be under vinyl flooring or linoleum, just like in the kitchen in here. Most times, vinyl flooring will not just lift off like this, this one must not have been glued on really well.

subfloor 1Most times you’re going to be scraping and scraping and it’s just easier to actually remove this all in one piece, so you can do it whether there is vinyl over top or whether is bare, just like what I am sitting on here. This type of material is usually stapled and nailed or there will either be a combination of both or one or the other.

This one has few tack nails, they must have laid it down, tacked it in place and then somebody came along with the stapler and stapled it. So you got fasteners in there. We are going to be cutting it into a little bit smaller pieces, you’ll find it comes off a lot easier that way than trying to pry it all off and one it’s in a big sheet.

When you are trying to pry it off without pre-cutting it, you’ll end up breaking it into little wee pieces, where more often than not, if we at least cut it, it will come up at least in little bigger pieces and be a little bit less trouble. So to do that, what I’ve done is I’ve taken the circular saw, I’ve set the depth of the blade, just basically laid it along the edge like that, set the depth of the blade just deep enough to get through the underlayment that we want to remove.

It’s all right if you square the subfloor underneath it just a little bit, but you want to avoid cutting into the subfloor very much at all, but if it just skims a little bit, for sixteen, that’s not a big deal. So we are going to do some cuts, when we are doing that we are obviously could be cutting through nails or staples, so we want to have some eye protection on. I am also going to be wearing some earplugs, just for the noise.

subfloor 3So I am going to cut it, then I am going to use a pry bar and hammer to start peeling up the pieces and as I go along, there’s going to be some staples that pull right through the underlayment and don’t come out of the subfloor so I got some pliers along with me, just to pull those out as I go. So we are going to do a bit of an area here, just so you can get the idea of what we do. It’s pretty basic, but sometimes seeing something done, just helps you out.

So I am going to get my safety gear on and make some cuts. So with my cuts, what I do, this materials are usually 4×8 sheets, I don’t think I mentioned that, and most of the stapling generally is going tobe around the perimeter, so what I’ll do is I will run my saw about eight inches from the edge of the perimeter of all the sheets, so I will go all the way around and then about every couple feet, I’ll also cut across the sheet.

So that will make a little bit easier to get up usually, at least in few less small pieces. I am going to get my plugs in and I am going to cut and I am going to also wear some gloves as well, some staples could be flying off the laid. This is just a small piece here, this is actually a 4×8 sheet, so I’ll do my demonstration on this full sheet just so you can see.

Stick with us because we’re going to finish this up in a second part… we just need to write it out and post it for you!

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